If you stand, barefoot, amidst the rolling red sand dunes of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, which forms the Kalahari’s’ southwestern tip, you can hear volumes. The loud hush of 40-degree heat fills the day, backed by the ubiquitous twitter of scaly-feathered finches and the wind rising from the south in the afternoons. At night the place come alive: jackals and hyenas cackle, lions send forth their sensuous groans, barking geckos click their mating calls. If you listen harder, you might hear the voices of the propel who once roamed this ancient land: the bushmen, as they prefer to be called, nomadic hunter-gatherers whose descendents now take you tracking in the Kgalagadi and are slowly reclaiming their culture there.

Read Melissa Siebert’s article !Kgalagadi here (Pdf download)